What Makes Highlands Special — preview

Highlands Biological Station · Highlands, North Carolina

What makes Highlands so special?

A town laid out with a ruler, a plateau that gathers rain like a coastal forest, and one of the richest communities of life in the temperate world. Wander in — every section of this page has something to try.

feet above sea level
4,118
inches of rain in an average year
~87
species known from the region
≈10,000
the year the Station began
1927

Highlands sits on a high plateau near the crest of the Blue Ridge, where the mountains fall away to the Piedmont. Cool summers, heavy rain, and steep terrain packed into a few miles have made it one of the most biologically diverse places in the Appalachians, and a small town that has cared for that landscape for 150 years.

Use the chapter bar to jump around. Drag the slider to climb a mountain, fill the rain gauges, sort the region's species, flip the field cards, and test yourself at the end.

01 1875

A town drawn with a ruler

As the story goes, two Kansas developers, Samuel Truman Kelsey and Clinton Carter Hutchinson, took a map and drew two lines: one from Chicago to Savannah, one from New York to New Orleans. Where the lines crossed, they reasoned, a great crossroads would grow.

They founded Highlands in 1875 and named it for its height. The trade routes never came. What came instead were summer visitors escaping the lowland heat, and, half a century later, scientists who realized the plateau held something rarer than commerce.

Try it: draw the lines yourself. On a flat map they cross in the South Carolina foothills, about 25 miles southeast of town. Close enough for a ruler in 1875.

Sketch map of the eastern United States Chicago, Savannah, New York, and New Orleans are marked. Two lines, Chicago to Savannah and New York to New Orleans, cross in upstate South Carolina, about 25 miles southeast of Highlands, North Carolina.

Four of the busiest cities of 1875 are marked. Press the button to connect them.

02 A town that reads, protects, and makes

Small town, long memory

Within a few years of its founding, Highlands had a library and a society devoted to its natural beauty. Both still exist, and the Station grew up beside them. Step through the years.

Summer theater

The Highlands Playhouse has staged summer productions for generations of residents and visitors.

Visual arts

The Bascom, a center for the visual arts, runs galleries, studios, and workshops a short walk from the Station.

Chamber music

The Highlands-Cashiers Chamber Music Festival brings visiting musicians to the plateau each summer.

The Station sits inside the town limits, so shops, restaurants, and the library are an easy walk from campus. The Highlands community has supported the Station's work since the beginning.

03 Elevation

Climbing is like driving north

The southern Blue Ridge spans roughly 6,000 feet of elevation, from Piedmont valleys to spruce-fir summits. Every thousand feet you climb, the air cools and the forest changes, as if you had travelled hundreds of miles toward Canada. Highlands sits at 4,118 feet, right in the middle of that journey.

Mountain profile from 1,000 to 6,600 feet, with forest zones marked and Highlands at 4,118 feet

4,118feet

Highlands Plateau

Typical July high
~79°F
Feels like travelling north
~540 mi

Temperatures and "miles north" are rules of thumb, not measurements: air cools roughly 3.5°F per 1,000 feet, and naturalists have long equated about 400 feet of climb with one degree of latitude (about 70 miles). Both are counted here from a 90°F day at 1,000 feet.

87"

Highlands, average year

106"

Highlands in 2013

39"

Seattle, average year

~30"

U.S. average

04 Climate

Where the rain gathers

Moist air from the Gulf and the Atlantic rises up the Blue Ridge escarpment, cools, and lets go. The result is around 87 inches of rain in a typical year, more than twice as much as Seattle, and in wet years well over 100.

That makes the Highlands Plateau wet enough to count as a temperate rainforest. Summers stay mild, rarely much above 80°F, and the damp, shaded coves are exactly what mosses, fungi, and lungless salamanders need.

~87 inaverage yearly rainfall on the plateau
≤ 80°Fa typical summer high; the air rarely gets hotter
40–61°Fthe range of average temperatures through the year

05 Biodiversity

Count the plateau

Nearly 10,000 species are known from the southern Appalachians, and more are described every year, some new to science. Salamanders and fungi reach their greatest diversity on Earth here. Pick a group to see how it adds up.

Dot field: each dot is ten species
Each dot = 10 species
Mushrooms and fungi on a damp, shaded forest floor in the southern Appalachians
Fungi: about 2,300 species described so far
A lungless southern Appalachian salamander that breathes through its moist skin
Most of the region's salamanders are lungless
A southern Appalachian forest ranging from cove hardwoods to high-elevation spruce-fir
Cove forests hold nearly 60 kinds of trees and shrubs in one stand

06 The Ice Age

Northern relics, far from home

When Pleistocene glaciers spread across North America, northern plants and animals moved south ahead of the ice. When the ice retreated about 11,000 years ago, some stayed behind in these cool, high mountains. Flip a card to meet a few of them.

    07 The neighborhood

    Gorges, falls, and wilderness within reach

    Few field stations sit this close to so many kinds of landscape. River gorges, protected wilderness, long-term research forests, and the highest peaks in the East are all within an hour or so. Choose a place on the compass.

    Distances are straight-line miles from the Station; driving distances on mountain roads are longer.

    Architectural blueprint for the original Highlands Museum building, drawn in the late 1930s
    The museum blueprint, late 1930s
    The Highlands Museum's outdoor amphitheater, opened in 1941
    The amphitheater, 1941
    The Highlands Botanical Gardens, a living collection of native southern Appalachian plants
    The Botanical Gardens, established 1962

    08 Why a field station here

    A living laboratory

    In 1927 a circle of Highlands citizens founded the museum association that became the Highlands Biological Station. Within a few years, scientists from Chapel Hill, Vanderbilt, and New York were basing research here.

    Nearly a century later, researchers and students still come for the same reasons: an extraordinary range of habitats close at hand, and partners nearby like the USDA Forest Service's Coweeta Hydrologic Laboratory, with field sites stretching from Great Smoky Mountains National Park to Gorges State Park and the Blue Ridge Parkway. Several foundational studies of salamander ecology were carried out right here.

    acre campus inside the town limits
    24
    a center of Western Carolina University
    Since 2018
    founded as a museum association
    1927
    first research laboratory
    1931

    Read the Station's history

    09 Test yourself

    How well do you know the plateau?

    Keep exploring

    Go deeper into Highlands

    Sources for the figures on this page
    1. Highlands Biological Station, Biodiversity of Highlands: species counts, climate ranges, northern relics, Ice Age refuge.
    2. Highlands Biological Station, Our History: 1927–2018 milestones, founding figures, campus.
    3. Highlands-Cashiers Land Trust, Our History: Highlands Improvement Association (1883), Satulah Mountain purchase (1909), oldest land trust in North Carolina.
    4. Fontana Regional Library, Hudson Library, and R. Shaffner, "The Hudson Library of Highlands, N.C." (2019): incorporated 1884, one of the oldest public libraries in the state.
    5. Highlands founding (1875) and the Chicago–Savannah / New York–New Orleans story: Highlands Chamber of Commerce.
    6. Rainfall: long-term average of about 87.6 inches and 106 inches in 2013, Highlands, North Carolina (NOAA climate data).